Polo and Sofia Estrada – This picture was taken is 2002 , just after I had given them money to start buying their house. We were are smiles, Polo told me we were a family now.
It had rained with great force as I drove towards Mulege. The torments of rain were so vigorous I actually had to stop the truck a few times as my view of the road was completely obscured by the sheets of rain and wind. My windshield wipers could not keep up with the downpour. Determined to make the drive in one day I continued on, there was some flooding in areas where the water had run down from the dry arroyos, the desert was wild and very exciting. Huge thunder clouds filled the sky as deafening thunder and bolts of lightning reached for the land below, the spectacular display before me were unbelievable sights, but did not stop me from venturing on to my destination. I pulled in around 7pm that evening, a light rain sprinkling down, everything had turned a brilliant green. The setting sun to the west dramatized the effect with a warm freshness to the atmosphere and I felt home a last. Polo and Sofia came out to greet me and the dogs as we began to unload a few things from the truck. My neighbors Franciso and his wife Husta were there to help, Polo had them hired to work for me. Franciso was to help with repairs and Husta was to help me with the house. We are all smiles that evening, Sofia offering dinner after my long journey, they had been worried about my arrival as it had be raining very hard in Mulege just a few hours before. I had told them the day I would arrive before I left, as usual, I was right on time.
Polo and Sofia had promised to clean the apartment that I would be moving into. Upon closer inspection nothing had actually been done, to my disappointment, even though I didn’t show it at the time. I moved a few things in cheerfully, I knew I would have time in the next few days to organize myself. I made the bed and fed my animals and then took a drive out to see my friend Judy at The Orchard. I was excited to see her and let her know that I had returned. When I drove up and walked over to her little trailer, she was still up and happy to see me, she gave me a big hug. We sat outside under the coconut palms that surrounded her trailer, we celebrated with a Pacifico beer. The night time temperature was perfect, the rains had cleared the air and everything was sweet-scented. A soft wind swept across our faces and the rustling of the leaves on the palms was a soothing sound in the tropical night. Our conversation light, mostly about the trip and my long drive down. I told her I would stop by in a few days, I had some questions I wanted to ask Hugo and Josfina and to get started on the contracts for sale of the house. There were a few things I needed to know and I asked for her help and support, She agreed.
During the next few days, I unpacked my truck and trailer, making myself as comfortable as I could. My views out over the Sea of Cortez were breathless, I could not get enough of it. Every morning when the sun would rise, I would myself sitting on the terrace captivated by the sights and sounds of Mulege.
So What’s Ajeido Land……
I was settling into my new surroundings, I began to wander throughout the old house, seeing now with new eyes the work that would need to be done. Things were much worse than I had anticipated, but I really did not see anything that could not be repaired with some effort and money. The wiring was almost not existent, held together with pieces of tape in some places and not at all in other places. It had begun to rain and the upper Casitas had roofs that leaked like a sieve. I would need two new roofs and complete new wiring throughout the entire house. There was one fuse connected to some old wire that was just hanging there, and no electrical box. My lists of supplies was growing longer every day.
Polo was asking for money, he said he would need another $5000.00, I agreed and asked for a receipt so he could sign for it. I typed up a formal receipt for him to sign, when I went over to there apartment, Sofia explained to me that he had left and would be back in a week. An uneasy feeling began to creep inside me, my natural instinct was trying to tell me something, I pushed it aside in my excitement.
I went to see my friend Judy, to ask more questions about Polo and Sofia. She explained to me that she had done some research and had asked her boss Roberto about the property I was trying to buy. She had found out the land the house was sitting was Ajeido Land, an expression I had never heard. I had no idea what the word meant. I would soon find out, the early explanations did not reveal to me the seriousness of what I was about to become involved in.
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When I first arrived I had started taking pictures of the house, so I would be able to see the improvements as I progressed. The house was in complete disrepair, this didn’t frighten me. I saw it as challenge to create a masterpiece that would give me pleasure, a home and business to last to the end of my life. Looking back at the old photos today and the way it looked when I left, gave me a sense of accomplishment. The Villa was on its way to becoming one of the most beautiful houses in Baja, it was just going to take a few years. I felt prepared for this project and very hopeful. Nothing in life worth having does not have a few bumps along the way. So whatever the Ajeido Land obstacle was, I felt that it would be resolved. I had no idea what Polo and Sofia had planned for me.
Judy explained to me the meaning of Ajeido Land. Basically almost all of the land in Mulege was owned by the Ajeido, which was a group of Mexican families that held title over certain portions of land. The land had been titled during the time of Spaniards and was common throughout Europe even today. The title could be secured by petitioning to the appropriate Ajeido Family for the clear title. It did not imply that a clear title could not be secured. It was a bit confusing and I went to see the Real Estate Agents Hugo and Josefina Martinez to ask them about this. Yes, they said part of the land was Ajeido and a clear title would be received in a few months. A portion of the land did have a clear title, I asked to see maps of the property and property lines. I was told the land included with the house was nearly 2 acres. I would need to form a corporation for $2000.00 and for an additional fee for their services, the title would be ready by the closing date in November, as we had agreed. I did not see a problem with this, as an American, who had bought and sold many houses, I trusted the real estate agents, an honest assumption on my part.
I continued to absorb myself in the planning of the Inn and to start on some immediate construction. I thought working on the outside of the house would be a good place to start. There was so much to be done, I had a goal to try and open by December, I had six months to get things rolling. My first project would be to pour cement in an out door walk way that was dirt and a portion of the upper terrace that was badly cracked and needed serious reconstruction. The addition of new doors in the apartment that I occupied would begin within the week, there were currently just windows that overlooked the main terrace. The doors would open up another entrance to the terrace from the apartment, bring in more light and enhancing the overall feel of openness. I had a week left before I would head back to the United States to begin the many trips I would make bringing down supplies. Mulege lacked at the time any kind of stores where you could purchase building materials, so everything would need to be brought down. Sofia told me that Polo would be returning in few days from his trip and I looked forward to asking him many questions regarding construction and his advise which he had readily agreed to help with.
I waited for Polo’s return and kept busy making list of the supplies I would be needing. I spent my days designing the Inn, drawing pictures of what was needed and the colors I would later use to finish things off. My excitement was mounting each day as I envisioned my completed project. The heat of Baja did not seem to bother me. I found ways to stay cool by heading out to one of the many beautiful beaches each afternoon and stopping for a cold beer and evening meal at El Patron, my favorite spot at the end of the river, on the Sea of Cortez. The week passed uneventfully as I began to settle into my new life. I still had my house at Castillo Del Mar in Rosarito Beach and I would continue to use it over the next month as a staging place to stay while buying supplies for Mulege. It was now the end of July, I would be returning to Rosarito in a few days, still no sign of Polo. I would to stick to my plan to return to up north on August 8th. This time I would be buying roofing materials for the two casitas, plumbing supplies and electrical wire, to try and bring the house to code. A fuse box was needed for the wiring for 220 and for new 110 wiring throughout the house, as the wire that existed was held together with tape. New light fixtures, ceiling fans, a propane water heater and lots of paint, I also needed a new stove for my apartment. I would spend a week shopping at Home Depot, Lowes and other home furnishing stores for all the needed supplies in San Diego. I could only bring back as much as my 5 by 9 foot trailer would carry. All of the furnishings for the Inn were in storage and would be brought down when the construction was finished, I had carefully planned, by the end of October.
This was was a huge project, one that I looked forward to. I was completely amazed how easily things had begun to take place, I was making progress. I was nearly ready to leave again for my trip up north, Sofia agreed to keep my dogs and cats while I was away this time. I would be back in 10 days. I left the morning of August 8th at 6 AM for the 10 hour journey back to Rosarito Beach, I would return on August 18th.


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